Foster Based Rescue - How to find a great family dog
Moonpie and Jake
Looking in old photo albums there is usually a family dog who belonged to our grandparents. The intelligence of these dogs, their kindness and humor, is legendary. My grandfather's dog was named Tex. Tex was wise, funny, and always kind despite his huge size and un-neutered condition.
He spent his first weeks in a box in the kitchen with his mother and siblings. Before he left this home he was picked up, hugged by children, scolded by a cat, and ate a little bit of dirt and a few sticks. People dropped things around him, children ran in and out shouting and let the door slam My grandfather purchased him for less than the price of a Starbucks coffee. Tex never had a leash. He followed his family when they were around and entertained himself when they were not. He never bit anyone, did not eliminate in the house, and knew a few tricks. By the standards of the 1920's he was a complete success.
Things have changed a lot for people and dogs in the last 100 years.
In 1915 cars were a rarity, 30% of the labor force worked in agriculture, and the American Kennel Club was only 31 years old.
Time was a lot less structured. Dogs went to work with Dad or stayed home with Mom. Leash laws were only found in the largest of cities. It was completely acceptable to let your dog run down to the school at 3:00 to meet the kids or entertain itself outdoors when you were busy.
During its unsupervised rambles a dog would learn about people, other dogs, and large and small livestock. Animals that were friendly and had some natural impluse control grew up and produced the next generation of friendly, behaviorally sound dogs. Animals that killed cats and chickens, growled at strangers and fought with other dogs tended not to last long enough to pass along their DNA.
Today, the world grows more crowded and animal isolation increases with leash laws, fenced in yards, and households where no one but the dog is home during the day. Solid family pets of no particular breeding are spayed and neutered. Puppies are produced via 'arranged marriages". The candidates are selected on the basis of conformation or specialized skills. Rarely are amiability and a calm disposition the most important trait for breeders.
"She's a little snarky, but look at that head!" And so the look of the dog takes precedence over temperament.
So how does someone find that sweet dog who has learned to live with humans, enjoys other dogs and can maybe even co-exist with cats?
I have two of them looking for homes right now. They are not my dogs, they belong to a local foster-based rescue.
What is a foster based rescue?
Animal shelters in many parts of the country are terribly over crowded. In these shelters sweet and adoptable dogs are regularly euthanized because there is not enough space. Foster based rescues maintain close contact with animal control officials and rescue wonderful dogs who have run out of time. These dogs are housed with volunteers, living in their homes with their children and pets. The volunteers watch the dogs closely. They learn their habits, work on their training and socialization, and when the dog is ready for its new home, have a hand in the placement of the dog.
The adopter gets a dog who has lived with people in a home. The dog has received a health check-up, inoculations, and is spayed or neutered and micro-chipped. The adoption fee rarely covers the health care the dog has received.
A great foster dog is a bargain and a treasure, and is placed carefully. Potential adoptive homes should be prepared to submit references which will be checked. They should expect a volunteer to visit their home and ask questions about where the dog will sleep, where it will spend it's days, how the dog will be trained, etc. Your existing pets will get to meet the potential new pet before the adoption is approved. If you pass muster, chances are you are a committed adoptor and the dog has found a happy, secure home.
If things don't work out a good foster organization will insist the dog is returned to them.
Does this mean you will get a 'perfect dog' from a foster? No, each and every dog, like each and every person, carries a certain amount of baggage. What is important is that your dog's quirks, and yours, mesh.
So what about my current foster dogs?
They have lived with me for about three weeks each and by now, like any good foster dog parent, I have a handle on their quirks. And, as a member of a reptutable foster group, I will be honest about these quirks.
The smaller dog appears to be a chihuahua. He is well housetrained in my home, but will need close supervision for the first few days in his new home. He loves to cuddle and burrow in blankets. He does well with the dogs in my house and is wonderful with our cat. He is great in the car, and would be a fine little travel companion for an adult only home. This dog will not do well with children under 12. He barks at other dogs when he is on leash. If you carry high value treats you can keep his focus on you and off of other things, or you can just pick him up and walk away, he's that small. His backstory? He was struck by a car and ran into a yard where three larger dogs attacked him. A lot of people spent a lot of time and money to put this little fellow in the safe place he is today. He will go to an excellent home.
The larger foster dog appears to be a border collie who came from a more rural area of Georgia. He is extremely gentle but seems to be a little afraid and will flinch or leave the room if we accidently frighten him. He would love a home with children who will be able to play with him and help him uncover the happy dog he was meant to be. He is perfect with my dogs and elderly cat and one of the gentlest souls I've met. He needs to be trained with treats and kindness. He desperately needs socialization. He needs to meet people and learn to love the car. He is starting to play, that's a huge step forward.
Am I tempted to keep them? Yes. But then I can't rescue any others. If you want a great dog call your local foster based rescue group and tell them not what breed you want, but what sort of friend you want. They can help you find the right dog.
Claudia Black-Kalinsky, CPDT-Ka
Group and Private Training
www.trainthisdog.com
Train this Dog's Facebook Page
Puppy Socializations - The Puppy's Rule of 12 - Margaret Hughes—Positive Paws Dog Training, 2002
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| Claudia Black-Kalinsky, CPDT-Ka 912-677-2861 / 201-738-5452 |
Margaret Hughes, at Positive Dog Training has developed an excellent list of things every young puppy should be familiar with. The Puppy's Rule of 12
Take your new puppy out in Savannah and Bluffton. Train your dog to greet new people and places with happy anticipation. Find a great puppy class (I happen to teach great puppy classes) that emphasize socialization as well as training.
With a new puppy socialization is crucial. All new puppies need to explore the world and have GOOD experiences.
By the time your puppy is 20 weeks old, it should have:
(If your puppy is older than 20 weeks, start immediately with this guideline)
- Experienced 12 different surfaces: wood, woodchips, carpet, tile, cement, linoleum, grass, wet grass, dirt, mud puddles, pea gravel, grates, a table (vet visits), etc.
- Been introduced to 12 different objects: toys, balls (big and small), funny sounding toys, metal items, statues, balloons, etc.
- Experienced 12 different locations: front yard, other people’s homes, school yard, lake, river, basement, elevator, car, moving car, laundry room, kennel, etc.
- Met and played with 12 new people (outside the family): children, adults, elderly adults, people in wheelchairs, walkers, people with canes, crutches, hats, uniforms, etc.
- Exposed to 12 different noises (ALWAYS keep things fun and watch the puppy’s comfort level- we don’t want the puppy scared): garage door opening, doorbell, phone ringing, children playing, crying baby, big trucks, motorcycles, skateboards, washing machine, clapping, lawnmowers, etc.
- Exposed to 12 fast-moving objects (don’t allow them to chase!): skateboards, roller-skates, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, running people, running cats, running squirrels, running horses, running cows, etc.
- Experienced 12 different challenges: climb on/in/off/around a box, go through a
cardboard tunnel, climb up and down steps, go in and out a doorway with a step,
go through an electric sliding door, climb over a log, go into a bathtub (and bath),
get in and out of a car, etc.
- Handled 12 different ways each week for 12 weeks: held under someone’s arm (football hold), hold on floor, held between owner’s legs, handle head, look in ears, look in mouth, look between toes, take temperature, held like a baby, trim toenails, etc.
- Been left alone safely (in crate) away from family and other animals (5-45 minutes) 12 times a week
- Been left alone safely (in crate) near family members (5-45 minutes) 12 times a week.
Crate Training Your Dog
Some dogs take to crate training easily.
You show them their crate, they seem to think, 'My very own club house, hooray!' and your problems are over.
Other dogs are not so sure about being left in a crate. They are nervous about being left alone, suspicious of confinement, and noisy. For these dogs, slow and steady will help your dog learn that a crate is not a dangerous place.
The size of your crate. A dog should be able to comfortably stand up, turn around and lay down in his or her crate. If you are working on house training then the crate should not be larger than this.
Crate training your nervous or barking dog - Slow and Steady is the Way to Go!
1. Start with the crate door open, drop small treats (cheerios are fine) into it, let him get them and leave. Don't make a fuss, just drop in a cheerio and walk away. When you're dog walks by 45 minutes later you want him to think, "Wow, this thing grows Cheerios!"
4. When he is resting in the crate comfortably and voluntarily, give him something very special, a stuffed kong, a bully stick, etc. close the door, and stay in the room. (have a book or computer ready to occupy your time)
5. When he is good at this start brief absences. Begin with a really short one, go to the kitchen for a drink of water. Gradually extend the absences. After you can move about your home without him crying go outside for a few moments and return BEFORE he has a chance to get frantic. Gradually extend these absences.
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You show them their crate, they seem to think, 'My very own club house, hooray!' and your problems are over.
Other dogs are not so sure about being left in a crate. They are nervous about being left alone, suspicious of confinement, and noisy. For these dogs, slow and steady will help your dog learn that a crate is not a dangerous place.
The size of your crate. A dog should be able to comfortably stand up, turn around and lay down in his or her crate. If you are working on house training then the crate should not be larger than this.
Crate training your nervous or barking dog - Slow and Steady is the Way to Go!
1. Start with the crate door open, drop small treats (cheerios are fine) into it, let him get them and leave. Don't make a fuss, just drop in a cheerio and walk away. When you're dog walks by 45 minutes later you want him to think, "Wow, this thing grows Cheerios!"2. If you are standing close by as he enters the crate say YES in a happy voice and drop another small treat into the crate, do not close the door yet.
3. If he elects to stay in the crate, drop several cheerios through the top at intervals of about 5 to 10 second.
Now it is time to begin to close the door ~ Don't Rush this step
4. When he is resting in the crate comfortably and voluntarily, give him something very special, a stuffed kong, a bully stick, etc. close the door, and stay in the room. (have a book or computer ready to occupy your time)
5. When he is good at this start brief absences. Begin with a really short one, go to the kitchen for a drink of water. Gradually extend the absences. After you can move about your home without him crying go outside for a few moments and return BEFORE he has a chance to get frantic. Gradually extend these absences.
6. When you return from an absence ignore him. Don't rush into the room and give him attention. Let him sit in his crate. Start with one minute of ignoring him, then go to a minute and a half, then two minutes, etc. Until you have worked it up to 10 minutes (just busy yourself with that book, computer, smartphone, etc.).
6. Do not pay any attention to him if he barks, whines, etc. Only a quiet dog is let out of a crate. Be firm on this point or you will teach him to demand bark.
Best of Luck!
Claudia Black-Kalinsky, CPDT-Ka
Cell: 912-677-2861
email: Claudia@trainthisdog.com
Web: http://www.catnipnbiscuits.com/
Cell: 912-677-2861
email: Claudia@trainthisdog.com
Web: http://www.catnipnbiscuits.com/
FOOLPROOF HOUSE TRAINING - FOR DOGS AND THEIR HUMANS
FOOLPROOF HOUSE TRAINING - FOR DOGS AND THEIR HUMANS
House training a puppy or dog is not magic. It is all about keeping a schedule, managing your dog's environment, and helping your dog learn by rewarding the correct thing. Punishing house breaking mistakes will delay your dog's learning.
1. Keep a schedule. How often does your dog eliminate? How soon after meals? Set an alarm.
2. Make sure your supervised puppy has lots of play and exploration time, but confine your dog to a crate or other small area when you cannot watch your dog or leave your home. (Watching your dog means, like a hawk, with the same attention you would give a two year old. If you are not watching, the mistake is on you, so don’t blame the dog.)
3. Dog’s give signals when they have to go. Very few walk purposefully to the door, give one articulate ‘woof’ and glance back to be sure you understand. They whine, pace, scratch circle, or go to the edges of a room, nudge you, nip you, etc. Learn these signals. Watch for them.
3. Dog’s give signals when they have to go. Very few walk purposefully to the door, give one articulate ‘woof’ and glance back to be sure you understand. They whine, pace, scratch circle, or go to the edges of a room, nudge you, nip you, etc. Learn these signals. Watch for them.
4. Be realistic about how long your dog can go without peeing. Just like us they eliminate more during waking hours. Puppies and small dogs go often, very often.
5. Take your dog to a designated potty spot ON LEASH. Stand there about 7 minutes or until the dog eliminates.
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If Dog Goes. Reward with a treat.
***Take dog for a walk or play with dog! Dragging the dog right inside punishes going outside. Additional outside play also gives the dog time to eliminate again. Reward all outdoor eliminations.
***Take dog for a walk or play with dog! Dragging the dog right inside punishes going outside. Additional outside play also gives the dog time to eliminate again. Reward all outdoor eliminations.
If Dog does NOT go. Return dog to Crate.
Set timer for 15 – 20 minutes, try again.
6. Do not EVER punish your dog for peeing or pooping in your home. Never, ever, no exceptions, period.
a. If you punish the dog while they are going you don’t teach them it is wrong to eliminate in the house. You teach them it is dangerous to eliminate in front of humans. Now you have a dog who won’t eliminate on walks. They wait until they are inside and you leave the room, then it is ‘safe’ to go. (I've had several of these as fosters over the years, including one right now.)
b. If you punish your dog even 4 seconds after they are done going, they don't connect the accident to your behavior. They may have just been scratching their ear, and they think that is why you are angry. 'I was scratching and listening to the birds outside and he went nuts!" At this point the dog believes you are unstable and possibly dangerous.
7. Use Nature’s Miracle, it’s an enzymatic cleaner. If you want to use vinegar, baking soda, or your mother’s magic recipe, go ahead. Just use the Nature’s Miracle too. Without enzymatic cleaner the ‘spot’ smells like the Men’s Room at the Atlanta Bus Station to your dog. Enzymatic cleaner breaks down the chemical structure of the urine and feces. Available at pet shops and supermarkets.
8. If your dog keeps eliminating in the same ‘spot’ block access to that spot, unless it is the front or back door. If your dog is eliminating near an exit, you need to take them out on a more regular basis.
9. If this does not work, bring your dog to the veterinarian to check for medical reasons you and your dog are not successful. If the dog checks out medically then find a qualified dog trainer to help you with house training your dog.
#trainthisdog
9. If this does not work, bring your dog to the veterinarian to check for medical reasons you and your dog are not successful. If the dog checks out medically then find a qualified dog trainer to help you with house training your dog.
#trainthisdog
Claudia Black-Kalinsky, CPDT-Ka
Cell: 912-677-2861
email: Claudia@trainthisdog.com
Web: http://www.catnipnbiscuits.com/
Cell: 912-677-2861
email: Claudia@trainthisdog.com
Web: http://www.catnipnbiscuits.com/
Do All Therapy Dogs Like Other Dogs?
The letter below is one written to a client at the dog daycare and boarding facility where I am the Training and Behavior consultant.
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The dog's owner was justifiably proud his dog had passed the TDI (Therapy Dog International) test. This dog was a wonderful therapy dog and she and her owner brought a great deal of happiness to people in the community.
However, like humans, dogs do not excel at everything. His dog, though wonderful with humans, did not like other dogs. He did give me a few clues. He felt uneasy at the dog park, did not have play dates with other dogs, and did not feel his dog would share a toy.
The names have been changed .
The names have been changed .
Good therapy dogs need to be the kind of dogs who ADORE people, all people, and want nothing more than to connect with them. It is, after all, the emotional connection that is often the therapeutic part of AAA and AAT. It seems to me that dogs sort into 4 categories: 1) adore people, care little for other dogs, 2) adore dogs, care little for unfamiliar people, 3) adore members of both species and are thrilled to meet new ones and 4) adore neither dogs or people, except maybe their owner. Needless to say, only categories 1 and 3 are good therapy prospects.
Patricia McConnell, PhD. Author of The Other End of the Leash, one of the best dog book I have ever read.
Patricia McConnell, PhD. Author of The Other End of the Leash, one of the best dog book I have ever read.
April 8, 2014
Dear Mr. Smith,
It is never easy to write one of these notes telling someone their dog is not a good candidate for daycare, especially when that dog has accomplished as much as your dog has and been such an asset to the community.
In part the decision to stop Sparky’s daycare evaluation immediately was partly dependent on her therapy dog status. Sparky obviously loves people. She is wiggly, kissy, and sweet. She is a great ambassador for her breed. All too often I have clients say, “My dog did this, because she is a rescue dog.” How I wish I had Sparky in my back pocket let them see how wonderful rescue dogs are.
Sparky, however, is one of the dogs that Patricia McConnell described above as dog #1. She went into the back with me, saw a line of kenneled dogs, and jammed on the breaks. I put her into a nearby suite with an opaque door and she was content.
After about a half hour I went to evaluate her. She was delighted to see me. I let her roam about my evaluation yard, sniff, come to me for petting, and get comfortable with the environment. Then I let in our first dog, a young female pittie with excellent manners and a sweet disposition, a lot like Sparky. She approached Sparky quietly for a sniff and Sparky snarled and punched her in the neck. The dog paused and tried again, for a soft gentle greeting and Sparky repeated her neck punch.
I opened a crate and the other dog ran in and leaned against the back wall, avoiding eye contact with Sparky.
Since you obviously have put a lot of care into your dog I am sure you know one bad experience can turn a great dog into a leash reactive dog. No one with a therapy dog needs a leash reactive dog.
Because of your excellent walking habits and care, Sparky is happy with other dogs when she is on leash. However she does not want to be approached. I would not ruin this for the world and stopped the evaluation before she had a chance to become uneasy with other dogs.
I hope you agree with my decision. Our primary goal is to ensure all dogs in our care are safe and happy.
I hope you agree with my decision. Our primary goal is to ensure all dogs in our care are safe and happy.
With this note is a very nice article by Robin Bennet called, “My Dog Got Kicked Out of Daycare Today”. I hope it explains anything I might have failed to make clear.
In the mean time, if you would like Sparky to come to us for day boarding she can be one of our non-daycare dogs. She will have a nice place to rest, regular walks, and people to talk to and play with and, if you provide it, a lunch time snack. We would love to have her here, she is a very sweet dog, just not a dog who wants to hang out with a lot of strange dogs.
I look forward to Therapy Dog International Visits with you, Sparky and my dog, Ella. She will appreciate Sparky's polite demeanor and I am sure we will have a fine time. I am very proud we passed the TDI test and can join you and your fellows.
I look forward to Therapy Dog International Visits with you, Sparky and my dog, Ella. She will appreciate Sparky's polite demeanor and I am sure we will have a fine time. I am very proud we passed the TDI test and can join you and your fellows.
Yours,
Claudia Black-Kalinsky, CPDT-Ka
Cell: 912-677-2861
email: Claudia@trainthisdog.com
Web: http://www.catnipnbiscuits.com/
Cell: 912-677-2861
email: Claudia@trainthisdog.com
Web: http://www.catnipnbiscuits.com/
A New Love Story...
Meet Chloe...
...she is a boxer bloodhound mix just adopted in to her forever family! Her new family love her to pieces already and at only 4 months old, that bond and pup will grow with leaps and bounds. She has quite the extended family too and she has been making a few rounds as she learns some social skills. You can tell she is already enamoured with one of the youngest family members..
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...she is a boxer bloodhound mix just adopted in to her forever family! Her new family love her to pieces already and at only 4 months old, that bond and pup will grow with leaps and bounds. She has quite the extended family too and she has been making a few rounds as she learns some social skills. You can tell she is already enamoured with one of the youngest family members..